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Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 Online Training Videos

Lightroom tutorialsWhen I first con­sid­ered Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 2, I wanted to try it out.  You can down­loaded it as a free 30 day trial from Adobe.   From  my research, this pro­gram was just what I was look­ing for.  You can orga­nize your pho­tos and edit them very quickly.   The prob­lem is,  learn­ing all the fea­tures in this pro­gram using the man­ual could take months to learn.  Then I found the lynda.com online train­ing course by Chris Orwig, a pho­tog­ra­pher and instruc­tor at the Brooks Insti­tute of Pho­tog­ra­phy in Santa Bar­bra, Cal­i­for­nia.  In a mater of days after view­ing his online video course I was pro­fi­cient in Light­room 2.  After a week I had all my pho­tos cat­a­loged (about 25000 pho­tos) and could edit about 100 pho­tos in about an hour. Wow! Other pro­grams would have taken me days to edit.  Now I’m really excited about the new Light­room 3.  Chris is a great instruc­tor and pas­sion­ate about pho­tog­ra­phy.  He made this course easy and fun to learn about Light­room 2 and Light­room 3.  Watch the videos below and see if Chris Orwig’s online video train­ing on Light­room 3 or other Lynda.com videos are right for you.

Chris intro­duces him­self and some of the new fea­tures in Light­room 3 Beta

Want more from your software? Learn new skills.

Light­room 3 Beta preview

Light­room 3 Beta is now avail­able for down­load  from Adobe and it’s free until it’s  final release some­time in April 2010.  To down­load Light­room 3 ‚  go to Adobe.com and search for Light­room 3 in the upper right cor­ner of the site.


Adobe Lightroom 2

Intro­duc­tion to Light­room 3 Beta
Sharp­en­ing in Light­room 2 vs. Light­room 3 Beta

I hope you enjoyed the­ses videos by Chris Orwig on Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 3.  Lynda.com is a great source for online train­ing which includes classes on pho­tog­ra­phy, graphic design, web design, pro­gram­ming and soft­ware & web appli­ca­tions.  With Lynda.com you will have access to over 1000 online courses 24/7.  Course sub­jects I have taken thru Lynda.com are:  Light­room 2, Light­room 3 Beta, Search Engine Opti­miza­tion, Word­Press,  Twit­ter, Face­book, Prod­uct Pho­tog­ra­phy, Sell­ing & Pub­lish­ing Pho­tog­ra­phy, HTML, Pho­to­shop Ele­ments, Word, Excel and Expres­sion Web.

So visit and try

lynda.com

Pho­to­shop Light­room 3 Essen­tial Train­ing [CD-ROM]

 

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Photography Terms

Below is a list of pho­tog­ra­phy terms

we will be adding to this list as we find new terms.

..



Aper­ture

The Aper­ture is the size of the open­ing in the cam­era lens at the moment a photo is taken.  Aper­ture is mea­sured in frac­tions, so the larger the num­ber, the smaller the aper­ture open­ing.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture are the two pri­mary con­trols for lim­it­ing the amount of light that hits the film or sensor.

Appli­ca­tion

An Appli­ca­tion is just another word for com­puter program.

APS-C For­mat

Refers to size of the dig­i­tal cam­era sen­sor. With Nikon’s  DX or APS-C for­mat sen­sor size is about 23.5 x 15.5mm and has a lens mul­ti­plier num­ber of 1.5. This makes a 200mm lens equal to a 300mm lens in 35mm for­mat equiv­a­lent. Math exam­ple — 200mm * 1.5 = 300mm.

Browser

A Browser is an appli­ca­tion that allows the pho­tog­ra­pher to sort and rename the pic­tures in his or her collection.

Burn­ing

Burn­ing means dark­en­ing part of a pho­to­graph.  In the dark­room, it’s done by block­ing some of the light that would nor­mally reach the rest of the photo.  In dig­i­tal photo edit­ing, it’s usu­ally a paintbrush-like tool built into the application.

CD

Com­pact Disks are the typ­i­cal means of stor­ing dig­i­tal pho­tographs.  They hold about 700 megabytes of infor­ma­tion, and can be CD-R for write­able CDs and CD-RW for re-writeable CDs.

Cloning

Cloning is an image edit­ing term for copy­ing one part of the image into another part of the same image or a dif­fer­ent image entirely.  It’s used for paint­ing out unwanted items, like elec­tric lines.

CMYK

CMYK is an acronym for Cyan, Magenta, Yel­low, Black.  These are the four col­ors used in the stan­dard print­ing process.  It’s also a color mode in photo edit­ing programs.

Com­pact Flash

Com­pact Flash is one form of dig­i­tal cam­era media.  It was the orig­i­nal stan­dard, and is still one of the most com­mon for­mats. It has a capac­ity that starts at 2MB to a max­i­mum capac­ity of 128GB.

Crop­ping

Crop­ping involves chop­ping out part of a pic­ture.  You might crop to focus atten­tion on the real sub­ject, or to remove extra stuff that intruded on the picture.

DVD

When it comes to stor­ing dig­i­tal pic­tures, a DVD is basi­cally a monster-sized CD.  It will hold over four and a half giga­bytes of data.

Dodg­ing

Dodg­ing is mak­ing a sec­tion of a photo lighter.  When this is done in the dark­room, it’s usu­ally by block­ing some of the light from reach­ing that part of the pic­ture.  In a photo edit­ing pro­gram, it’s a paint­brush like tool that light­ens instead of painting.

Down­load

Down­load­ing is the oppo­site of upload­ing.  Down­load­ing means to pull data from another loca­tion.  Nor­mally it means to get data from the Inter­net, but in dig­i­tal pho­tog­ra­phy, it also means to get the pic­tures from the cam­era.  Some­times used inter­change­ably with Importing.

DPI

Most photo print­ers and mon­i­tors mea­sure their res­o­lu­tion in Dots Per Inch, or DPI.  The higher the num­ber, the higher the resolution.

Photoshop tutorials

EXIF

EXIF stands for Exchange­able Image For­mat.  Most dig­i­tal images have two parts.  The first is the image itself, which is usu­ally stored as a JPG image.  The sec­ond is the EXIF data.  EXIF data most often includes all of the photographer’s infor­ma­tion, like the date and time the pic­ture was taken and the shut­ter speed and aper­ture set at the time.

Flip

Flip­ping an image is the same as reflect­ing it in a mir­ror.  Flip­ping is one of the basic image edit­ing tools.

F-Stop

Com­ming soon

Full Frame Format

Refers to size of the dig­i­tal cam­era sen­sor. The Nikon FX or Full Frame For­mat sen­sor size is about 26 x 24mm or about the same size as 35mm film.

Grayscale

Tech­ni­cally speak­ing, a spec­trum of gray shades from black to white.  A grayscale pic­ture is the dig­i­tal equiv­a­lent of a black and white photo.

HDR

Com­ming soon

High­lights

The High­lights are the whitest part of a pic­ture.  Nor­mally, they are a very small per­cent­age of the pic­ture, because it’s very easy to lose details in highlights.

His­togram

A His­togram is a chart that graphs all of the tones in a photo.  Most pro­grams will gen­er­ate his­tograms, and most dig­i­tal cam­eras can cre­ate them also.

Hue

Com­ming soon

Image File Format

The for­mat of an image file deter­mines the size of the file, the over­all image qual­ity, and sev­eral other things.  Com­mon image file for­mats are JPG, GIF, TIFF, and PNG.

Image Res­o­lu­tion

The Res­o­lu­tion is the num­ber of pix­els, or dots, in a picture.

Inkjet Printer

An Inkjet printer sprays tiny jets of ink onto paper.

ISO

The sen­si­tiv­ity of film is mea­sured by ISO, and the larger the num­ber, the more sen­stive the film.  ISO 100 needs a lot of light, like out­doors on a sunny day.  ISO 1600 doesn’t need much light.  How­ever, higher ISO means more grain in the film.  Dig­i­tal images bor­rowed the ISO scale to mea­sure the sen­si­tiv­ity of a cam­era sen­sor.  Just like the grain that’s added to film at higher ISO set­tings, more “noise” is added to dig­i­tal images at higher ISO.  In gen­eral, as ISO goes up, qual­ity goes down.

JPG or JPEG

The Joint Pho­to­graphic Experts Group devel­oped a method for mak­ing dig­i­tal images smaller while sac­ri­fic­ing only a lit­tle bit of qual­ity in the process.  This is called JPG com­pres­sion, and is the most com­mon pic­ture for­mat on the Internet.

Land­scape

The word land­scape, like por­trait, actu­ally has two mean­ings.  The first and orig­i­nal is the pho­tog­ra­phy term for a pic­ture of wide open spaces, like a moun­tain or sun­set.  The sec­ond mean­ing is a descrip­tion of the align­ment of a pic­ture.  Pic­tures that are ori­ented horizontally–with the nar­row sides upright–are known as Land­scape images, whether they depict a moun­tain or not.

Lay­ers

Think of Lay­ers as sheets of trac­ing paper or trans­parency film laid over top of your image.  Graphic design­ers use lay­ers to sep­a­rate out ele­ments of their project, so that they can work on indi­vid­ual pieces with­out dam­ag­ing oth­ers.  Adjust­ment Lay­ers are a spe­cial kind of layer that shows the results of what­ever fil­ter or func­tion is attached to that layer.

Lumi­nance

Com­ming soon

Media

Media is a tech­ni­cal term for stor­age.  Com­pact disks, DVD’s, mem­ory cards, thumb dieves, are all stor­age media.  Remove­able media is a mem­ory cards, thumb dieves, or disk that can be moved from one com­puter to another with­out los­ing data.

Megabyte

A megabyte is gen­er­ally about a mil­lion bytes, or a thou­sand kilo­bytes.  Tech­ni­cally, a megabyte is 1024 kilobytes.

Megapixel

A megapixel is one mil­lion pix­els, or dots.  Megapix­els are the de facto stan­dard for mea­sur­ing the power of a dig­i­tal cam­era.  Gen­er­ally speak­ing, a four megapixel image can be printed at about 5x7 or per­haps even 8x10 with­out mak­ing the pix­els so large it ruins the pic­ture. How­ever a 12 megapixel or 24 megapixel can pro­duce a much larger qual­ity print, but lens qual­ity plays a more impor­tant roll with large prints.

Mem­ory Stick ®

One brand of dig­i­tal cam­era media.  It looks like a small stick of chew­ing gum.

Online Photo Printing

Online Print­ers are Inter­net com­pa­nies that allow their mem­bers to upload pic­tures for print­ing.  Once the prints are done, the com­pany then mails them to the customer.

Pan­ning

Pan­ning the cam­era involves fol­low­ing a mov­ing sub­ject while snap­ping the pic­ture.  Done prop­erly, the sub­ject will be sharp and the back­ground behind it will be blurry.  This tech­nique can be dupli­cated by using a radial blur on the back­ground in a photo edit­ing application.

Pixel

Pixel is short for Pic­ture Ele­ment, and it’s basi­cally a dot.  All dig­i­tal pic­tures are made up of these dots, and count­ing them is a mea­sure of the image (pix­els per inch, or PPI), print (dots per inch, or DPI), and cam­era power (mil­lions of pix­els or megapixels).

Plug-in

Plug-ins are small or large pro­grams that can be added to a pro­gram appli­ca­tion like Pho­to­shop or Light­room to enhance the capa­bil­ity of the appli­ca­tion. The­ses plug-ins are usu­ally cre­ated by a third party company.

Por­trait

The word Por­trait actu­ally has two mean­ings.  The first and orig­i­nal is the pho­tog­ra­phy term for a pic­ture of a per­son.  The sec­ond mean­ing is a descrip­tion of the align­ment of a pic­ture.  Pic­tures that are ori­ented vertically–with the long sides upright–are known as Por­trait images, whether they depict a per­son or not.

RAW

RAW is the inter­nal for­mat of a dig­i­tal cam­era.  Many cam­eras “pre-process” images.  They will do JPG com­pres­sion, white bal­anc­ing, and a num­ber of other adjust­ments.  The RAW image is the start­ing point for all of these.  Dig­i­tal pho­tog­ra­phers pre­fer to start from the RAW file so that they can make their own changes to these items.

Red Eye

Red Eye is the reflec­tion of the cam­era flash off of the back of the subject’s eyes.  It hap­pens most often with a bright flash in dim light.  Many photo edit­ing appli­ca­tions have red eye removal features.

Photoshop tutorials

Resize

Resize is one of the basic photo edit­ing tools.  It’s used to change the size or res­o­lu­tion of an image.

RGB

RGB is the stan­dard color for­mat for dig­i­tal images.  It stands for Red, Green, Blue.  Each of the three col­ors is given an amount between 0 and 255, and the blend of the three pro­duces all of the other col­ors.  Three zeroes pro­duce white, and three 255s pro­duce black.

Rotate

Rota­tion is one of the basic photo edit­ing tools, and is com­monly used to fix por­traits that have been down­loaded from the cam­era as landscape.

Sat­u­ra­tion

Sat­u­ra­tion is a mea­sure of the rich­ness of the col­ors in a photo.  When a pic­ture is desat­u­rated, all of the color infor­ma­tion has been removed, and what’s left is a grayscale or black and white picture.

Shad­ows

The shad­ows are the dark­est part of an image, just as high­lights are the brightest.

Shar­ing

Shar­ing pho­tos gen­er­ally involves upload­ing them to a web­site (like Flickr) so that other peo­ple can view them or even order prints and photo gifts.

Sharp­ness

Sharp­ness is a descrip­tion of the focus and clar­ity of a pic­ture.  It con­cerns how clearly the details appear to be.

SD or Secure Digital

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media card that can sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 2GB.

SDHC or Secure Dig­i­tal High Capacity

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media cards that sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 32GB. Some older cam­eras do not sup­port this format.

SDXC or Secure Dig­i­tal Extended Capacity

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media cards that sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 2TB. Only some of the newest cam­eras sup­port this for­mat as of 2010.

Shut­ter Speed

Shut­ter Speed is the amount of time the shut­ter remains open when a photo is taken.  Shut­ter Speed and Aper­ture together deter­mine just how much light hits the film or cam­era sen­sor.  The shut­ter speed is also a frac­tion, just like the aper­ture.  A shut­ter speed of 500 is actu­ally 1/500, or “one five hun­dredth of a second.”

Smart Media ™

One of the sev­eral ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media.

Thumb Drive

A Thumb Drive is one name for a USB Flash Chip.  Other nick­names are Jump Drive and USB Key­chain. The Thumb Drive comes in var­i­ous sizes, like 1mb to 16mb and higher that plugs into a computer’s USB port.  It’s like hav­ing a pocket hard drive.

Thumb­nail

A Thumb­nail is a small ver­sion of a larger pic­ture.  Many brows­ing and edit­ing pro­grams use thumb­nails to index a pic­ture col­lec­tion.  Some pro­grams will even gen­er­ate Con­tact Sheets, which are basi­cally page after page of thumb­nails show­ing the entire col­lec­tion or directory.

Upload­ing

Upload­ing is the oppo­site of down­load­ing.  Upload­ing involves send­ing a file from your com­puter to another sys­tem, either through a cable or over the Internet.

USB

USB stands for Uni­ver­sal Ser­ial Bus.  It’s an indus­try stan­dard for con­nect­ing things to com­put­ers.  Most dig­i­tal cam­eras and chip read­ers use a USB cable to con­nect to the com­puter.  USB 2.0 is a newer and faster stan­dard, most com­puter can han­dle the 2.0.

White Bal­ance

White Bal­ance is a cam­era set­ting used to com­pen­sate for changes in the color of light.  Some arti­fi­cial lights “tint” the color they project, so the camera’s white bal­ance set­ting is used to bal­ance this back to a more nor­mal color cast.  If the camera’s white bal­ance was incor­rect, then the photo edi­tor has to account for this by chang­ing the color scale.  The pro­gram will use an area that was sup­posed to be white as the start­ing point, and will remap every other color in the pic­ture accordingly.

Wiz­ard

A Wiz­ard in com­puter terms is a pro­gram that walks you through a process step by step.  For exam­ple, a scan­ning wiz­ard might ask a series of ques­tions on color vs. black and white, auto­matic scratch removal, and image res­o­lu­tion, before it actu­ally trig­gers the scanner.

This is a list in progress. We will be adding to this list as we find new terms.  You can help make this a more com­plete list. If you have a term that is relates to pho­tog­ra­phy. Please leave a com­ment related to pho­tog­ra­phy terms. (SPAM will not be approved) Thank You Doug

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Finding Your Camera Lens Sweet Spot

So you are look­ing for a new cam­era lens or you went out and bought a brand new D-SLR dig­i­tal cam­era with the kit lens. Now you want to pro­duce 11 x 14 or 16 x20 or larger sharp prints.  You will need a good tri­pod and know your cam­era lens sweet spot. The lens sweet spot is the aper­ture or F-stop set­ting which pro­duces sharpest image possible.

The lens sweet spot is deter­mined by which F-stop or aper­ture to get the sharpest image. All lenses have a sweet spot.  What we are going to deter­mine is what aper­ture will pro­duce the sharpest image.  A sim­ple rule of thumb is to take the widest aper­ture and stop it down 2 full f stops or 2 full aper­ture val­ues ( see chart below).  Let’s say you have a lens with a max­i­mum F-stop of F4.  That would make the sweet spot of your lens about F8.  The prob­lem is this may not be the exact sweet spot for your par­tic­u­lar lens. The only way to really know is to test the lens for your­self or you may find it in a lens review arti­cle in one of the many pho­tog­ra­phy mag­a­zines.  The prob­lem is that your lens may not have been tested or at least may not have iden­ti­fied the sweet spot of your lens.

Photoshop tutorials

Full F-stop Chart

Your lens may have other F-stops not listed on this chart above.

The chart above gives the cor­re­spond­ing aper­ture value to F-stop.  As each aper­ture value increases it cuts the light in half.  As each aper­ture val­ues decreases it dou­bles the light.

So let’s test the lens.  The first thing I did was find a test pat­tern chart to test the lens.  I found one at http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/ISO_12233-reschart.pdf You can print it right from the site or down­loaded it.  Once down­loaded you can print the test chart in the best qual­ity your printer will allow you to print.   This is what you will need to run this test: your cam­era and lens; a sturdy tri­pod; a remote cable release; a board to mount the test chart on; the test chart.

Step 1. Attach the chart on the board with tape so that the chart will not move if there is any wind.

Step 2.  Find a bright spot out­side and set the board with the chart in the sun.

Step 3.  Install your cam­era on a tripod.

Step 4.  Select the cam­era to aper­ture priority.

Step 5.  Focus your cam­era on the chart.

 

Test Chart Loca­tion Below

Next, we’ll start with full open.  Let’s say at f5.6 and shoot your first pic­ture.  Next we’ll shoot a photo at each f-stop, mak­ing note of each photo’s f-stop so that when you import them you will know which F-stop cor­re­sponds to each pho­to­graph.  Be sure to use your remote shut­ter release cable and don’t move the cam­era through the whole process.  Please note  that any cam­era shake or move­ment will cause an inac­cu­rate test.

After you fin­ish, take your mem­ory card and import into your favorite photo edit­ing soft­ware.  (I use Adobe Light­room 2.)  Open the pho­tos in your edi­tor and set the  mag­ni­fi­ca­tion to one to one.  Use a side by side com­pare func­tion if avail­able.  Now, care­fully inspect and com­pare each pho­to­graph to see which one is the sharpest.  Once you have deter­mined which photo is the sharpest you have found your lens F-stop sweet spot.

If you are using a zoom lens you may want to repeat these steps for sev­eral focal lengths.  Let’s say you’re using a 70 to 200 mm lens.  First use 70mm then 130mm then 200mm. This will let you find the best F-stop for the sharpest pic­ture at all F-stops.

The chart below shows the tests results I found with the lenses I have.

Con­clu­sion.

One thing that I found when per­form­ing these tests is the bet­ter the lens qual­ity the harder it is to find the exact sweet spot. These lenses gen­er­ally had between two and three F-stops with the best sharp­ness. With some less expen­sive lens I found it easy to find a sin­gle F-stop sweet spot. But it is pos­si­ble with higher end con­sumer lenses with ED glass (extra low dis­tor­tion glass) you can get very sharp images.

Now you know what your lens sweet spot is.  Even if you have a less expen­sive lens, by using this knowl­edge, you will be able to get very sharp pho­tographs with most lenses.  But, we do live in the real world.  Some­times, because of low light con­di­tions, or the need to adjust the depth of field, we may have to adjust our F-stop to our needs.  So, if the sit­u­a­tion is right to use the sweet spot of your lens,  you will find you will get the sharpest pic­tures pos­si­ble with your lens.

The Tele­con­verter

I was not happy with the test results on the Nikon TC-20E II 2X Tele­con­verter.   I have read other reviews of the Nikon brand Tele­con­verter that come to same con­clu­sion. They also revealed that the Nikon TC-17E II 1.7x and Nikon TC-14E II 1.4x both had supe­rior per­for­mance over the TC-20E II 2X Teleconverter.

If you are in the mar­ket for a new lens or cam­era, buy the best lens you can afford.  In my opin­ion, the lens is more impor­tant than the cam­era.  Con­sider this the lens has a life cycle of about 10 or more years and because the cam­era tech­nol­ogy changes so fast, the camera’s life cycle is only 2 to 5 years.

So do your home­work before you buy any cam­era, lens or teleconverter.

Please share your ques­tions or com­ments below.

Happy sharp shooting.

Doug Nie­der­miller



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