Learn Adobe Lightroom 4 BETA Fast with Chris Orwig

Visit the download page of Lightroom 4 Beta

Adobe has just announced its release of Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 4 beta. I am really excited about the new fea­tures in this ver­sion of Light­room. I would like to also intro­duce Chris Orwig pho­tog­ra­phy instruc­tor. Chris has just released his free new 2 hour train­ing video on Pho­to­shop Light­room 4 Beta at Lynda.com. Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room is an ele­gant pow­er­ful photo orga­niz­ing and edit­ing tool that will improve your work­flow. It is for both pro­fes­sional and advanced ama­teur photographers.

Light­room 4 Beta

First, we’ll start with some of the new fea­tures on Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 4 Beta.

  • High­light and shadow recov­ery — Bring out the detail in the shad­ows and high­lights more efficiently.
  • New Tab — Cre­ate photo books — Eas­ily cre­ate photo books with easy-to-use tem­plates and then pub­lish right from Light­room to blurb or a PDF file.
  • New Tab location-based orga­ni­za­tion — You can now orga­nize your pho­tos by GPS loca­tions with GPS enabled cam­eras and dis­play them in Light­room on Google maps within the program.
  • White bal­ance brush — With the new white bal­ance brush. You can now adjust the white bal­ance of a spe­cific area of your photograph.
  • Local edit­ing con­trols — You can now reduce noise to a tar­geted area of your pho­to­graph with­out affect­ing the rest of the photograph.
  • New Tab expanded video sup­port — eas­ier orga­niz­ing and view­ing of videos plus adjust­ing expo­sure and trim­ming of video clips right within Lightroom.
  • Soft proof­ing — Eas­ily pre­view your images before they are printed.
  • E-mail directly from Light­room — You can now e-mail your pho­tos directly from light­room using the e-mail account of your choice.

With these new fea­tures Light­room 4 will be an excit­ing new upgrade that is going to come out some­time in March 2012. But you don’t have to wait to try out Light­room 4.  You can Click Here to down­load the beta ver­sion of Light­room 4 right now or you can Click Here to try out the cur­rent ver­sion of Light­room 3.6

learn Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 4 with Chris Orwig

Chris Orwig one of my favorite authors at Lynda.com and has just released a new two-hour train­ing video on Light­room 4 beta.  You can view the entire video tuto­r­ial series for free. Just Click Here to view the entire course or watch 2 intro­duc­tory video bel­low. Either way, this is a great way to try out Lynda.com for free and see why Chris Orwig is such a great instruc­tor. Chris Orwig is a pho­tog­ra­pher and  a teacher at the Brooks Insti­tute of pho­tog­ra­phy in Santa Bar­bara, Cal­i­for­nia and has also pro­duced 33 courses at Lynda.com. There are over 1000 courses at Lynda.com and a good major­ity of the courses our on pho­tog­ra­phy, video edit­ing, graphic design and many other busi­ness soft­ware titles.

The New Book Cre­ation Tab

The New Video Tab

 

 

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Build or Buy a Computer for Lightroom 3

Look­ing to speed up  Light­room 3?  In my last arti­cle, Speed Up Light­room 3, I talked about set­ting up pref­er­ences in Light­room 3 to increase per­for­mance and adding a few small upgrades to help speed things up.   But, some­times, your com­puter may be too old to make a dif­fer­ence. you may need a major upgrade or a new computer.

I recently upgraded my own com­puter and saw sig­nif­i­cant Light­room 3 speed increases. Well, it’s basi­cally a brand-new PC at this point. My old com­puter had a Giga­byte brand moth­er­board with the Pen­tium D dual core proces­sor 2.8 GHz proces­sor with 4 GB of mem­ory. Here is a list of the com­po­nents I used to build my new PC:

Case – Cooler Mas­ter Haf 912 with three addi­tional optional fans. Five fans total. Why so many fans? Heat can kill a com­puter or at least slows it down. A cool PC is a happy PC.

Power Sup­ply – Antec 520 Watt high cur­rent power supply.

Moth­er­board – Giga­byte brand model Z68X-Ud3-B3 dis­con­tin­ued. (Update Decem­ber 2011 new gen­er­a­tion moth­er­board Giga­byte brand model GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3) This is my third Giga­byte brand moth­er­board I have installed in my com­put­ers. I just install them and they work.GIGABYTE GA-Z68X-UD3-B3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

  • LGA1155 CPU Socket
  • Intel® Z68 Express Chipset
  • 4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sock­ets sup­port­ing up to 32 GB
  • 2 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors
  • 4 x SATA 3Gb/s connectors
  • Up to 14 USB 2.0  ports 8 external
  • Up to 4 USB 3.0  ports 2 external
  • ATX Form Fac­tor; 30.5cm x 24.4cm
  • 6 x audio jacks
  • Up to 2 IEEE 1394 port 1 external

Intel-Core-I7-2600kCPU – Intel Core I7 2600k 4 core / 8-Way Mul­ti­task proces­sor. Unlocked 3.4 GHz and 3.7 GHz in turbo mode. This proces­sor and moth­er­board com­bi­na­tion can be over clocked but it is not nec­es­sary at this time.

Mem­ory – 2–Gskill, 4GB, 2 chan­nel DDR3 1600 mem­ory mod­ules for a total of 8 GB.

I used my old hard drive. Sea­gate 1TB

I also used my old video card – EVGA GeForce 9500 GT 512MB video card. New ver­sion EVGA GeForce GT 430 1GB

Oper­at­ing Sys­tem – Win­dows 7 Pro­fes­sional.

Upgrad­ing the PC to this new con­fig­u­ra­tion has dra­mat­i­cally improved my per­for­mance when using a pro­gram like Light­room 3. Just start­ing up Light­room would take approx­i­mately 60 sec­onds and now it only takes 3 sec­onds. Other Pro­grams like Pho­tomatix Pro, an HDR plug-in for Light­room used to take 5 to 6 min­utes to process, now takes less than a minute. Another pro­gram I use is Proshow Gold, a slide show pre­sen­ta­tion pro­gram, also saw dra­matic improvement.

Win­dows 7 is a real improve­ment over Win­dows XP. I chose Win­dows 7 Pro­fes­sional because it has a Win­dows XP emu­la­tion mode that allows me to run older soft­ware that is only com­pat­i­ble with Win­dows XP.

Con­clu­sion

Cooler Master HAF 912Upgrad­ing this com­puter was well worth the expense of about $700 to $800. You may not want to build a com­puter your­self, but if you’re look­ing to pur­chase a new com­puter you can use the spec­i­fi­ca­tions here to give you a guide on what to look in spec­i­fi­ca­tions. I hope this arti­cle helps you in your pho­tog­ra­phy edit­ing and improves your Light­room experience.

In a future arti­cle I will dis­cuss drive man­age­ment — how to pro­tect your pho­tos and data.

Places to buy com­puter and com­puter parts

Newegg

Com­pusa

Learn more about Light­room 3

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Speed up Adobe Lightroom 3

Light­room 3 is a great pro­gram to orga­nize your pho­tos and is an excel­lent tool for edit­ing your pho­tographs. But, if you have an older com­puter sys­tem like I had, Light­room 3 can get a bit slug­gish. Here are a few things I found that can help.

Opti­mize Catalog

After a while using Light­room you may notice that Light­room is run­ning a lit­tle slower than usual. By opti­miz­ing your cat­a­log you can fix this prob­lem eas­ily. To do this go to the top and select file then select Opti­mize Cat­a­log. Now you will get the Opti­mize Cat­a­log dia­log box.(See Below) Now select Opti­mize Cat­a­log. This will take a few min­utes depend­ing on the size your cat­a­log. You will not be able use Light­room dur­ing this period.

Card Read­ers

When upload­ing pho­tographs use a card reader rather than directly from your cam­era and use a card reader that uses USB2 or USB3, if avail­able. This way the upload is notice­ably faster.

TIFF rather than PSD

For exter­nal edit­ing use TIFF rather than PSD file for­mat. TIFF files process faster than PSD files. To set this up, go to the top and select Edit then Pref­er­ences. This will bring up the Pref­er­ences dia­log box.(See Below) At the top of the Pref­er­ences dia­log box select Exter­nal Edit­ing. Go to the drop down box File For­mat and select TIFF. These are a few of the other set­ting I use. In the Color Space select Prophoto RGB. In the Bit Space select 16-bit/component. Set Res­o­lu­tion to 300. Finally, set Com­pres­sion to None. Then press OK at the bot­tom when fin­ished to save the changes.

Trash Bin

Empty your Trash Bin often. Light­room cre­ates a lot of extra files. Do this and it will keep your sys­tem clean.

Uncheck Auto­mat­i­cally write to changes in XMP

To do this go to the top and select Edit then select Cat­a­log Set­tings. The Cat­a­log Set­tings dia­log box will now appear.(See Below) Select Meta­data at the top. Uncheck the box marked Auto­mat­i­cally right to changes in XMP. Then press OK. Please Note: This will dis­able the cat­a­log from sav­ing any changes you make in the cat­a­log from updat­ing the XMP Side­car file. But it does improve speed. After you have mod­i­fied a group of pho­tographs, you can man­u­ally save to the XMP Side­car file. Select all the pho­tos that you are work­ing on and press Con­trol and then S to save the data to your XMP Side­car file. This way other pro­grams that use the XMP file can rec­og­nize the changes you made. Then press OK at the bot­tom when fin­ished to save the changes.

Change the cam­era raw cache settings

To do this first select Edit. Then select Pref­er­ences. You will now see the Pref­er­ences dia­log box.(See Below) Go to the bot­tom of the dia­log box and change the default from 1 GB to a higher num­ber like, 10, 25 or even 50 GB. I use 25 GB. Cam­era cache is used to store the image pre­views. By increas­ing the cache size it allows you to store more pre­views. This will increase your speed of mov­ing between pho­tographs. Then press OK at the bot­tom when fin­ished to save the changes.

Build Pre­views

To help speed up your photo edit­ing we are going to select a group of pho­tos and have Light­room cre­ate pre­views for that whole group of pho­tos. This will allow you to move from photo to photo in a shorter period of time. In the Library sec­tion first select a folder or group of pho­tos. Don’t select the whole cat­a­log, as this could take a lot of time to process and is not nec­es­sary. To do this at the top select Library then Pre­views then select Ren­ders Stan­dard Size Pre­views. A dia­log box will appear and then choose Build All. This will build pre­views for all the pho­tos you selected. Now when you go and access each one of those pho­tographs they will pop up much faster and not need to build pre­view each time you select it.

Lynda.com has over 1000 video courses on sub­jects like Light­room, Pho­to­shop, Pho­tog­ra­phy and other soft­ware pro­grams. click below to learn more.

Lightroom tutorials

Com­puter Upgrades

Here are few upgrades you can per­form on your com­puter that may improve the per­for­mance also:

Use a faster hard drive — This will improve your over sys­tem performance.

Add RAM of 8GB or more. Light­room uses a lot of mem­ory. so this will help with Light­room performance.

Con­clu­sion

If these steps don’t help enough it may be time for a new com­puter. In the next arti­cle I will be build­ing a new com­puter with the new Intel Core I7 2600K Proces­sor to super­charge the per­for­mance for Light­room 3 and video editing.

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Tools for Better Exposure

The tools or func­tions listed below may or may not be on your cam­era. Check your camera’s man­ual to see if they are avail­able.  If so, these tools can help you achieve bet­ter expo­sures even in default light­ing situations.

RAW File Format

If avail­able this is prob­a­bly your first defense in bet­ter expo­sure but, it may require spe­cial soft­ware. Shoot in the RAW file for­mat if pos­si­ble.  RAW files have all the  infor­ma­tion and will even have more detail in the shad­ows and high­lights that are lost in the JPG file for­mat. JPG files from your cam­era dis­cards a lot of use­ful infor­ma­tion that can help in post pro­cess­ing. This may save an oth­er­wise  bad exposure.

Cam­era Histogram

Use the his­togram on your cam­era and try to keep the graph some­where in between ether side of the his­togram box. This will give you the best expo­sure pos­si­ble. If the graph goes beyond the right or left it will be over or under exposed. This is called clip­ping. Just note that if you have really bright or dark spots in your pho­to­graph you may not be able to remove all the clipping.

Exam­ples below of  his­tograms with under exposed, prop­erly exposed  and over exposed photo

Hist_under_exposureThis is an exam­ple of an under exposed photo. Notice the graph is run­ning past the left side of the his­togram. This is clip­ping on the left.  Remem­ber all the infor­ma­tion that is past the left or clipped is lost and will show up as pure black on your photo.

Hist_good_exposureThis is an exam­ple of a prop­erly exposed photo. Notice the graph is cen­tered and to the left side of the his­togram. There is a small amount of clip­ping on the right. This is nor­mal because there are some bright white spots in the photo.

Hist_over_exposedThis is an exam­ple of an over exposed photo. Notice the graph is run­ning past the right side of the his­togram. This is clip­ping on the right. Remem­ber all the infor­ma­tion that is past the right or clipped is lost and will show up as pure white on your photo.

Please note I have used Light­room his­tograms in these exam­ples. The his­togram on your cam­era may look dif­fer­ent but will basi­cally work the same.

High­lights or Blinkies

High­light point dis­play or the “blinkies”. This is a mode where the dis­play on the back of the cam­era will blink in bright spots on the dis­play or photo. This works sim­i­lar to the his­togram. as the blink­ing shows the clip­ping only on the over­ex­posed por­tion of the dis­play or photo. This can be an easy way to check expo­sure. Just a note -  some blink­ing may be ok in areas of your photo such as clouds, the sun or very bright spots.

Expo­sure Compensation

Con­sider using the expo­sure com­pen­sa­tion func­tion in Aperture-Priority or Shutter-Priority. Use this func­tion if your his­togram is clip­ping. In man­ual mode this can be done by adjust­ing the aper­ture or shut­ter so that you com­pen­sate by over or under expos­ing as needed to get the his­togram to not clip as much as pos­si­ble. This is really handy in default light­ing sit­u­a­tions like bright sunny days or in win­ter with snow and sun.

Expo­sure Bracketing

One more option to con­sider is the expo­sure brack­et­ing func­tion. In this func­tion you will take 2 or 3 frames or more (I set mine to 3 frames and +/- 5EV in incre­ments 1/2) . 1  would be prop­erly exposed, 1 over exposed and 1 under exposed. Then in your photo edit­ing pro­gram pick the one with the best exposure.

Expo­sure brack­et­ing can also be used in HDR or High Dynamic-Range pho­tog­ra­phy and the pro­gram I use, Pho­tomatix Pro 3.1,  It is a stand­alone pro­gram and also has plug-ins for Adobe Pho­to­shop CS5 and Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 3.  In HDR you shot mul­ti­ple  pho­tos all at dif­fer­ent expo­sures. Then using a pro­gram in post pro­cess­ing to com­bin­ing them into one pho­to­graph that uses the best exposed por­tion of each photo shot.  Real Cool!  I will cover this more in detail in a future article.

Soft­ware

The post pro­cess­ing soft­ware avail­able today can do a lot to repair a badly exposed photo, but it can­not repair or bring back infor­ma­tion that is lost by clipping.

This is the soft­ware I use in the order that I use them the most.

Adobe Pho­to­shop Light­room 3

Pho­tomatix Pro

Topaz labs Adjust

Adobe Pho­to­shop Ele­ments 8

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Fun with Topaz Labs Simplify 2

The pic­tures in this slide show are not paint­ings, they are pho­tographs! These pho­tographs are processed with a Pho­to­shop plu­gin called Sim­plify 2 by Topaz Labs. This is a sam­ple of what you can do with this pro­gram. It will remove detail from pho­tographs and make them look like a paint­ing or a car­toon and even a line draw­ing rep­re­sen­ta­tion of a photograph.

Click photo to view photo slideshow

View a slide show of photos processed with Topaz Labs Simplify 2

  Topaz Labs Simplify

Topaz Labs Simplify

Photoshop tutorials
Adobe

Adjust 4

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Photography Terms

Below is a list of pho­tog­ra­phy terms

we will be adding to this list as we find new terms.

..



Aper­ture

The Aper­ture is the size of the open­ing in the cam­era lens at the moment a photo is taken.  Aper­ture is mea­sured in frac­tions, so the larger the num­ber, the smaller the aper­ture open­ing.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture are the two pri­mary con­trols for lim­it­ing the amount of light that hits the film or sensor.

Appli­ca­tion

An Appli­ca­tion is just another word for com­puter program.

APS-C For­mat

Refers to size of the dig­i­tal cam­era sen­sor. With Nikon’s  DX or APS-C for­mat sen­sor size is about 23.5 x 15.5mm and has a lens mul­ti­plier num­ber of 1.5. This makes a 200mm lens equal to a 300mm lens in 35mm for­mat equiv­a­lent. Math exam­ple — 200mm * 1.5 = 300mm.

Browser

A Browser is an appli­ca­tion that allows the pho­tog­ra­pher to sort and rename the pic­tures in his or her collection.

Burn­ing

Burn­ing means dark­en­ing part of a pho­to­graph.  In the dark­room, it’s done by block­ing some of the light that would nor­mally reach the rest of the photo.  In dig­i­tal photo edit­ing, it’s usu­ally a paintbrush-like tool built into the application.

CD

Com­pact Disks are the typ­i­cal means of stor­ing dig­i­tal pho­tographs.  They hold about 700 megabytes of infor­ma­tion, and can be CD-R for write­able CDs and CD-RW for re-writeable CDs.

Cloning

Cloning is an image edit­ing term for copy­ing one part of the image into another part of the same image or a dif­fer­ent image entirely.  It’s used for paint­ing out unwanted items, like elec­tric lines.

CMYK

CMYK is an acronym for Cyan, Magenta, Yel­low, Black.  These are the four col­ors used in the stan­dard print­ing process.  It’s also a color mode in photo edit­ing programs.

Com­pact Flash

Com­pact Flash is one form of dig­i­tal cam­era media.  It was the orig­i­nal stan­dard, and is still one of the most com­mon for­mats. It has a capac­ity that starts at 2MB to a max­i­mum capac­ity of 128GB.

Crop­ping

Crop­ping involves chop­ping out part of a pic­ture.  You might crop to focus atten­tion on the real sub­ject, or to remove extra stuff that intruded on the picture.

DVD

When it comes to stor­ing dig­i­tal pic­tures, a DVD is basi­cally a monster-sized CD.  It will hold over four and a half giga­bytes of data.

Dodg­ing

Dodg­ing is mak­ing a sec­tion of a photo lighter.  When this is done in the dark­room, it’s usu­ally by block­ing some of the light from reach­ing that part of the pic­ture.  In a photo edit­ing pro­gram, it’s a paint­brush like tool that light­ens instead of painting.

Down­load

Down­load­ing is the oppo­site of upload­ing.  Down­load­ing means to pull data from another loca­tion.  Nor­mally it means to get data from the Inter­net, but in dig­i­tal pho­tog­ra­phy, it also means to get the pic­tures from the cam­era.  Some­times used inter­change­ably with Importing.

DPI

Most photo print­ers and mon­i­tors mea­sure their res­o­lu­tion in Dots Per Inch, or DPI.  The higher the num­ber, the higher the resolution.

Photoshop tutorials

EXIF

EXIF stands for Exchange­able Image For­mat.  Most dig­i­tal images have two parts.  The first is the image itself, which is usu­ally stored as a JPG image.  The sec­ond is the EXIF data.  EXIF data most often includes all of the photographer’s infor­ma­tion, like the date and time the pic­ture was taken and the shut­ter speed and aper­ture set at the time.

Flip

Flip­ping an image is the same as reflect­ing it in a mir­ror.  Flip­ping is one of the basic image edit­ing tools.

F-Stop

Com­ming soon

Full Frame Format

Refers to size of the dig­i­tal cam­era sen­sor. The Nikon FX or Full Frame For­mat sen­sor size is about 26 x 24mm or about the same size as 35mm film.

Grayscale

Tech­ni­cally speak­ing, a spec­trum of gray shades from black to white.  A grayscale pic­ture is the dig­i­tal equiv­a­lent of a black and white photo.

HDR

Com­ming soon

High­lights

The High­lights are the whitest part of a pic­ture.  Nor­mally, they are a very small per­cent­age of the pic­ture, because it’s very easy to lose details in highlights.

His­togram

A His­togram is a chart that graphs all of the tones in a photo.  Most pro­grams will gen­er­ate his­tograms, and most dig­i­tal cam­eras can cre­ate them also.

Hue

Com­ming soon

Image File Format

The for­mat of an image file deter­mines the size of the file, the over­all image qual­ity, and sev­eral other things.  Com­mon image file for­mats are JPG, GIF, TIFF, and PNG.

Image Res­o­lu­tion

The Res­o­lu­tion is the num­ber of pix­els, or dots, in a picture.

Inkjet Printer

An Inkjet printer sprays tiny jets of ink onto paper.

ISO

The sen­si­tiv­ity of film is mea­sured by ISO, and the larger the num­ber, the more sen­stive the film.  ISO 100 needs a lot of light, like out­doors on a sunny day.  ISO 1600 doesn’t need much light.  How­ever, higher ISO means more grain in the film.  Dig­i­tal images bor­rowed the ISO scale to mea­sure the sen­si­tiv­ity of a cam­era sen­sor.  Just like the grain that’s added to film at higher ISO set­tings, more “noise” is added to dig­i­tal images at higher ISO.  In gen­eral, as ISO goes up, qual­ity goes down.

JPG or JPEG

The Joint Pho­to­graphic Experts Group devel­oped a method for mak­ing dig­i­tal images smaller while sac­ri­fic­ing only a lit­tle bit of qual­ity in the process.  This is called JPG com­pres­sion, and is the most com­mon pic­ture for­mat on the Internet.

Land­scape

The word land­scape, like por­trait, actu­ally has two mean­ings.  The first and orig­i­nal is the pho­tog­ra­phy term for a pic­ture of wide open spaces, like a moun­tain or sun­set.  The sec­ond mean­ing is a descrip­tion of the align­ment of a pic­ture.  Pic­tures that are ori­ented horizontally–with the nar­row sides upright–are known as Land­scape images, whether they depict a moun­tain or not.

Lay­ers

Think of Lay­ers as sheets of trac­ing paper or trans­parency film laid over top of your image.  Graphic design­ers use lay­ers to sep­a­rate out ele­ments of their project, so that they can work on indi­vid­ual pieces with­out dam­ag­ing oth­ers.  Adjust­ment Lay­ers are a spe­cial kind of layer that shows the results of what­ever fil­ter or func­tion is attached to that layer.

Lumi­nance

Com­ming soon

Media

Media is a tech­ni­cal term for stor­age.  Com­pact disks, DVD’s, mem­ory cards, thumb dieves, are all stor­age media.  Remove­able media is a mem­ory cards, thumb dieves, or disk that can be moved from one com­puter to another with­out los­ing data.

Megabyte

A megabyte is gen­er­ally about a mil­lion bytes, or a thou­sand kilo­bytes.  Tech­ni­cally, a megabyte is 1024 kilobytes.

Megapixel

A megapixel is one mil­lion pix­els, or dots.  Megapix­els are the de facto stan­dard for mea­sur­ing the power of a dig­i­tal cam­era.  Gen­er­ally speak­ing, a four megapixel image can be printed at about 5x7 or per­haps even 8x10 with­out mak­ing the pix­els so large it ruins the pic­ture. How­ever a 12 megapixel or 24 megapixel can pro­duce a much larger qual­ity print, but lens qual­ity plays a more impor­tant roll with large prints.

Mem­ory Stick ®

One brand of dig­i­tal cam­era media.  It looks like a small stick of chew­ing gum.

Online Photo Printing

Online Print­ers are Inter­net com­pa­nies that allow their mem­bers to upload pic­tures for print­ing.  Once the prints are done, the com­pany then mails them to the customer.

Pan­ning

Pan­ning the cam­era involves fol­low­ing a mov­ing sub­ject while snap­ping the pic­ture.  Done prop­erly, the sub­ject will be sharp and the back­ground behind it will be blurry.  This tech­nique can be dupli­cated by using a radial blur on the back­ground in a photo edit­ing application.

Pixel

Pixel is short for Pic­ture Ele­ment, and it’s basi­cally a dot.  All dig­i­tal pic­tures are made up of these dots, and count­ing them is a mea­sure of the image (pix­els per inch, or PPI), print (dots per inch, or DPI), and cam­era power (mil­lions of pix­els or megapixels).

Plug-in

Plug-ins are small or large pro­grams that can be added to a pro­gram appli­ca­tion like Pho­to­shop or Light­room to enhance the capa­bil­ity of the appli­ca­tion. The­ses plug-ins are usu­ally cre­ated by a third party company.

Por­trait

The word Por­trait actu­ally has two mean­ings.  The first and orig­i­nal is the pho­tog­ra­phy term for a pic­ture of a per­son.  The sec­ond mean­ing is a descrip­tion of the align­ment of a pic­ture.  Pic­tures that are ori­ented vertically–with the long sides upright–are known as Por­trait images, whether they depict a per­son or not.

RAW

RAW is the inter­nal for­mat of a dig­i­tal cam­era.  Many cam­eras “pre-process” images.  They will do JPG com­pres­sion, white bal­anc­ing, and a num­ber of other adjust­ments.  The RAW image is the start­ing point for all of these.  Dig­i­tal pho­tog­ra­phers pre­fer to start from the RAW file so that they can make their own changes to these items.

Red Eye

Red Eye is the reflec­tion of the cam­era flash off of the back of the subject’s eyes.  It hap­pens most often with a bright flash in dim light.  Many photo edit­ing appli­ca­tions have red eye removal features.

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Resize

Resize is one of the basic photo edit­ing tools.  It’s used to change the size or res­o­lu­tion of an image.

RGB

RGB is the stan­dard color for­mat for dig­i­tal images.  It stands for Red, Green, Blue.  Each of the three col­ors is given an amount between 0 and 255, and the blend of the three pro­duces all of the other col­ors.  Three zeroes pro­duce white, and three 255s pro­duce black.

Rotate

Rota­tion is one of the basic photo edit­ing tools, and is com­monly used to fix por­traits that have been down­loaded from the cam­era as landscape.

Sat­u­ra­tion

Sat­u­ra­tion is a mea­sure of the rich­ness of the col­ors in a photo.  When a pic­ture is desat­u­rated, all of the color infor­ma­tion has been removed, and what’s left is a grayscale or black and white picture.

Shad­ows

The shad­ows are the dark­est part of an image, just as high­lights are the brightest.

Shar­ing

Shar­ing pho­tos gen­er­ally involves upload­ing them to a web­site (like Flickr) so that other peo­ple can view them or even order prints and photo gifts.

Sharp­ness

Sharp­ness is a descrip­tion of the focus and clar­ity of a pic­ture.  It con­cerns how clearly the details appear to be.

SD or Secure Digital

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media card that can sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 2GB.

SDHC or Secure Dig­i­tal High Capacity

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media cards that sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 32GB. Some older cam­eras do not sup­port this format.

SDXC or Secure Dig­i­tal Extended Capacity

One ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media cards that sup­port a max­i­mum capac­ity of 2TB. Only some of the newest cam­eras sup­port this for­mat as of 2010.

Shut­ter Speed

Shut­ter Speed is the amount of time the shut­ter remains open when a photo is taken.  Shut­ter Speed and Aper­ture together deter­mine just how much light hits the film or cam­era sen­sor.  The shut­ter speed is also a frac­tion, just like the aper­ture.  A shut­ter speed of 500 is actu­ally 1/500, or “one five hun­dredth of a second.”

Smart Media ™

One of the sev­eral ver­sions of dig­i­tal cam­era media.

Thumb Drive

A Thumb Drive is one name for a USB Flash Chip.  Other nick­names are Jump Drive and USB Key­chain. The Thumb Drive comes in var­i­ous sizes, like 1mb to 16mb and higher that plugs into a computer’s USB port.  It’s like hav­ing a pocket hard drive.

Thumb­nail

A Thumb­nail is a small ver­sion of a larger pic­ture.  Many brows­ing and edit­ing pro­grams use thumb­nails to index a pic­ture col­lec­tion.  Some pro­grams will even gen­er­ate Con­tact Sheets, which are basi­cally page after page of thumb­nails show­ing the entire col­lec­tion or directory.

Upload­ing

Upload­ing is the oppo­site of down­load­ing.  Upload­ing involves send­ing a file from your com­puter to another sys­tem, either through a cable or over the Internet.

USB

USB stands for Uni­ver­sal Ser­ial Bus.  It’s an indus­try stan­dard for con­nect­ing things to com­put­ers.  Most dig­i­tal cam­eras and chip read­ers use a USB cable to con­nect to the com­puter.  USB 2.0 is a newer and faster stan­dard, most com­puter can han­dle the 2.0.

White Bal­ance

White Bal­ance is a cam­era set­ting used to com­pen­sate for changes in the color of light.  Some arti­fi­cial lights “tint” the color they project, so the camera’s white bal­ance set­ting is used to bal­ance this back to a more nor­mal color cast.  If the camera’s white bal­ance was incor­rect, then the photo edi­tor has to account for this by chang­ing the color scale.  The pro­gram will use an area that was sup­posed to be white as the start­ing point, and will remap every other color in the pic­ture accordingly.

Wiz­ard

A Wiz­ard in com­puter terms is a pro­gram that walks you through a process step by step.  For exam­ple, a scan­ning wiz­ard might ask a series of ques­tions on color vs. black and white, auto­matic scratch removal, and image res­o­lu­tion, before it actu­ally trig­gers the scanner.

This is a list in progress. We will be adding to this list as we find new terms.  You can help make this a more com­plete list. If you have a term that is relates to pho­tog­ra­phy. Please leave a com­ment related to pho­tog­ra­phy terms. (SPAM will not be approved) Thank You Doug

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Finding Your Camera Lens Sweet Spot

So you are look­ing for a new cam­era lens or you went out and bought a brand new D-SLR dig­i­tal cam­era with the kit lens. Now you want to pro­duce 11 x 14 or 16 x20 or larger sharp prints.  You will need a good tri­pod and know your cam­era lens sweet spot. The lens sweet spot is the aper­ture or F-stop set­ting which pro­duces sharpest image possible.

The lens sweet spot is deter­mined by which F-stop or aper­ture to get the sharpest image. All lenses have a sweet spot.  What we are going to deter­mine is what aper­ture will pro­duce the sharpest image.  A sim­ple rule of thumb is to take the widest aper­ture and stop it down 2 full f stops or 2 full aper­ture val­ues ( see chart below).  Let’s say you have a lens with a max­i­mum F-stop of F4.  That would make the sweet spot of your lens about F8.  The prob­lem is this may not be the exact sweet spot for your par­tic­u­lar lens. The only way to really know is to test the lens for your­self or you may find it in a lens review arti­cle in one of the many pho­tog­ra­phy mag­a­zines.  The prob­lem is that your lens may not have been tested or at least may not have iden­ti­fied the sweet spot of your lens.

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Full F-stop Chart

Your lens may have other F-stops not listed on this chart above.

The chart above gives the cor­re­spond­ing aper­ture value to F-stop.  As each aper­ture value increases it cuts the light in half.  As each aper­ture val­ues decreases it dou­bles the light.

So let’s test the lens.  The first thing I did was find a test pat­tern chart to test the lens.  I found one at http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/ISO_12233-reschart.pdf You can print it right from the site or down­loaded it.  Once down­loaded you can print the test chart in the best qual­ity your printer will allow you to print.   This is what you will need to run this test: your cam­era and lens; a sturdy tri­pod; a remote cable release; a board to mount the test chart on; the test chart.

Step 1. Attach the chart on the board with tape so that the chart will not move if there is any wind.

Step 2.  Find a bright spot out­side and set the board with the chart in the sun.

Step 3.  Install your cam­era on a tripod.

Step 4.  Select the cam­era to aper­ture priority.

Step 5.  Focus your cam­era on the chart.

Test Chart Loca­tion Below

Next, we’ll start with full open.  Let’s say at f5.6 and shoot your first pic­ture.  Next we’ll shoot a photo at each f-stop, mak­ing note of each photo’s f-stop so that when you import them you will know which F-stop cor­re­sponds to each pho­to­graph.  Be sure to use your remote shut­ter release cable and don’t move the cam­era through the whole process.  Please note  that any cam­era shake or move­ment will cause an inac­cu­rate test.

After you fin­ish, take your mem­ory card and import into your favorite photo edit­ing soft­ware.  (I use Adobe Light­room 2.)  Open the pho­tos in your edi­tor and set the  mag­ni­fi­ca­tion to one to one.  Use a side by side com­pare func­tion if avail­able.  Now, care­fully inspect and com­pare each pho­to­graph to see which one is the sharpest.  Once you have deter­mined which photo is the sharpest you have found your lens F-stop sweet spot.

If you are using a zoom lens you may want to repeat these steps for sev­eral focal lengths.  Let’s say you’re using a 70 to 200 mm lens.  First use 70mm then 130mm then 200mm. This will let you find the best F-stop for the sharpest pic­ture at all F-stops.

The chart below shows the tests results I found with the lenses I have.

Con­clu­sion.

One thing that I found when per­form­ing these tests is the bet­ter the lens qual­ity the harder it is to find the exact sweet spot. These lenses gen­er­ally had between two and three F-stops with the best sharp­ness. With some less expen­sive lens I found it easy to find a sin­gle F-stop sweet spot. But it is pos­si­ble with higher end con­sumer lenses with ED glass (extra low dis­tor­tion glass) you can get very sharp images.

Now you know what your lens sweet spot is.  Even if you have a less expen­sive lens, by using this knowl­edge, you will be able to get very sharp pho­tographs with most lenses.  But, we do live in the real world.  Some­times, because of low light con­di­tions, or the need to adjust the depth of field, we may have to adjust our F-stop to our needs.  So, if the sit­u­a­tion is right to use the sweet spot of your lens,  you will find you will get the sharpest pic­tures pos­si­ble with your lens.

The Tele­con­verter

I was not happy with the test results on the Nikon TC-20E II 2X Tele­con­verter.   I have read other reviews of the Nikon brand Tele­con­verter that come to same con­clu­sion. They also revealed that the Nikon TC-17E II 1.7x and Nikon TC-14E II 1.4x both had supe­rior per­for­mance over the TC-20E II 2X Teleconverter.

If you are in the mar­ket for a new lens or cam­era, buy the best lens you can afford.  In my opin­ion, the lens is more impor­tant than the cam­era.  Con­sider this the lens has a life cycle of about 10 or more years and because the cam­era tech­nol­ogy changes so fast, the camera’s life cycle is only 2 to 5 years.

So do your home­work before you buy any cam­era, lens or teleconverter.

Please share your ques­tions or com­ments below.

Happy sharp shooting.

Doug Nie­der­miller



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Lens Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO

Lens aper­ture, shut­ter speed and ISO are the three pri­mary adjust­ments avail­able to achieve a prop­erly exposed pho­to­graph. These set­tings can also affect the image qual­ity and artis­tic effects of your photography.

Lens Aper­ture

The aper­ture is the size of the open­ing in the cam­era lens at the moment a photo is taken.  Aper­ture is mea­sured in frac­tions, so the larger the num­ber, the smaller the aper­ture open­ing.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture are the two pri­mary con­trols for lim­it­ing the amount of light that hits the cam­era sen­sor.  Aper­ture also con­trols the depth of field.  A small aper­ture will pro­duce a pho­to­graph with almost all objects in focus.  A large aper­ture will pro­duce a pho­to­graph with a small amount  of the objects in focus.  This will give you con­trol over what you want in focus. That is why I pri­mar­ily use the aper­ture pri­or­ity cam­era set­ting in my photography.

Typ­i­cal aper­tures include:   f1   f1.4    f2     f2.8     f4     f5.6    f8     f11     f16     f22     f23 f45

Cam­era Shut­ter Speed

Shut­ter speed is the amount of time the shut­ter remains open when a photo is taken.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture together deter­mine just how much light hits the film or cam­era sen­sor.  The shut­ter speed is also a frac­tion, just like the aper­ture.  A shut­ter speed of 500 is actu­ally 1/500, or “one five hun­dredth of a sec­ond. To hand hold a cam­era, the rule of thumb is a 50mm lens can be hand-held at 1/60 of a sec­ond.  A 200mm lens at 1/200 of a sec­ond and so on.  To achieve this you can adjust the aper­tures or the ISO settings.

Typ­i­cal shut­ter speeds:  30s    20s    10s   4s   2s   1s   1/2s    1/4s     1/8s   1/15s    1/30s   1/60s   1/125s     1/250s     1/500s    1/1000s    1/2000s    1/4000s

Cam­era Sen­sor ISO

The sen­si­tiv­ity of film or cam­era sen­sor is mea­sured by ISO, and the larger the num­ber, the more sen­si­tive the cam­era sen­sor.  ISO 100 needs a lot of light, like out­doors on a sunny day.  ISO 1600 doesn’t need much light.  How­ever, higher ISO means more grain in the film and more noise in dig­i­tal.  Dig­i­tal images bor­row the ISO scale to mea­sure the sen­si­tiv­ity of film.  Just like the grain that’s added to film at higher ISO set­tings, more “noise” is added to dig­i­tal images at higher ISO.  In gen­eral, as ISO goes up, qual­ity goes down.  Some of the new mid to high-end D-SLR have improved the noise lev­els at the higher ISO set­tings up to ISO 1600.  Some of the new cam­eras have ISO set­tings between 100 and 102400.

Typ­i­cal ISO set­tings:   50   100   200 400   800   1600   and high ISO 3200 6400

Con­clu­sion

My basic cam­era set­tings I use related to this arti­cle  are: ISO 100 for best image qual­ity  and set cam­era to aper­ture pri­or­ity.  Also, use a tri­pod when ever pos­si­ble.  All three set­tings work in con­cert and affect proper expo­sure.  All have their advan­tages an dis­ad­van­tages, so exper­i­ment with all of  these set­tings and you will become a bet­ter photographer.

Ref­er­ence

Hear is a nice Expo­sure Chart

 

Doug Nie­der­miller Photography

 

 


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