Fun With Topaz Labs Adjust

Topaz Labs Adjust

Topaz Labs Adjust 4 is a Pho­to­shop plug-in. It also works with Light­room, Aper­ture and oth­ers pro­grams. Adjust is pow­er­ful expo­sure, detail, color and noise adjust­ment fil­ter. You can cre­ate HDR like pho­tos from a sin­gle photo. Adjust can also turn a plain photo into a stun­ning fine art photo in just min­utes. You are only lim­ited by your own imag­i­na­tion. Once you have cre­ated what you like, you can save the set­tings as a pre­set for your future work. I like Topaz Labs Adjust  4 for its abil­ity to bring back the color, detail and expo­sure to what I saw when I first pho­tographed an object. I also used Adobe Light­room for some minor final adjust­ments. I can highly rec­om­mend Topaz Labs Adjust and all the other plug-ins in the Topaz Labs bun­dle. I use them all. The Video below has some exam­ples of before and after pho­tos using Topaz Labs Adjust 4.


Adobe Lightroom 3

<a href="http://www.linkedtube.com/vsQ9BYo3hZ4a000a889bd29b2c7d7474e0dbe2a8e07.htm" _mce_href="http://www.linkedtube.com/vsQ9BYo3hZ4a000a889bd29b2c7d7474e0dbe2a8e07.htm">LinkedTube</a>

Music by Jimmy Gel­haar. All music made avail­able through the www.jimmygelhaar.com web­site at:
www.jimmygelhaar.com — Film Com­poser and Music Downloadss

You can down­load Topaz Labs Adjust 4 as a free trial and start using it in just a few minutes.

Along with Topaz Lab Adjust 4  you get a down­load user guides, learn­ing cen­ter with video tuto­ri­als, user forum, tech sup­port, and user galleries.

Com­pat­i­bil­ity

The plug-in Topaz Lab Adjust 4 is com­pat­i­ble with:

Mac sys­tem:  OS 10.4, 10.5  10.6

Mac soft­ware: Adobe Pho­to­shop CS3-CS5, Adobe Pho­to­shop Ele­ments 6–9, Apple Aper­ture 2 and 3, Adobe Light­room 2 and 3, Apple iPhoto

Please note: Aper­ture, Light­room and iPhoto require the free Topaz Fusion Express soft­ware add on.

Win­dows Sys­tems: Win­dows XP,  Win­dows Vista,  Win­dows 7 (32-bit and 64-bit all Win­dows versions)

Win­dows soft­ware: Adobe Pho­to­shop CS3-CS5 (32-bit and 64-bit), Adobe Pho­to­shop Ele­ments 6–9, Adobe Light­room 2 and 3 with the free Topaz Fusion Express soft­ware add on, Irfan­view, PaintShop Pro, Photo and Serif Photo Plus.

1 GB RAM Min­i­mum for both Mac and Windows

Not com­pat­i­ble with the Pow­erPC proces­sors like G4 or G5.

 

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Finding Your Camera Lens Sweet Spot

So you are look­ing for a new cam­era lens or you went out and bought a brand new D-SLR dig­i­tal cam­era with the kit lens. Now you want to pro­duce 11 x 14 or 16 x20 or larger sharp prints.  You will need a good tri­pod and know your cam­era lens sweet spot. The lens sweet spot is the aper­ture or F-stop set­ting which pro­duces sharpest image possible.

The lens sweet spot is deter­mined by which F-stop or aper­ture to get the sharpest image. All lenses have a sweet spot.  What we are going to deter­mine is what aper­ture will pro­duce the sharpest image.  A sim­ple rule of thumb is to take the widest aper­ture and stop it down 2 full f stops or 2 full aper­ture val­ues ( see chart below).  Let’s say you have a lens with a max­i­mum F-stop of F4.  That would make the sweet spot of your lens about F8.  The prob­lem is this may not be the exact sweet spot for your par­tic­u­lar lens. The only way to really know is to test the lens for your­self or you may find it in a lens review arti­cle in one of the many pho­tog­ra­phy mag­a­zines.  The prob­lem is that your lens may not have been tested or at least may not have iden­ti­fied the sweet spot of your lens.

Photoshop tutorials
Full F-stop Chart

Your lens may have other F-stops not listed on this chart above.

The chart above gives the cor­re­spond­ing aper­ture value to F-stop.  As each aper­ture value increases it cuts the light in half.  As each aper­ture val­ues decreases it dou­bles the light.

So let’s test the lens.  The first thing I did was find a test pat­tern chart to test the lens.  I found one at http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/ISO_12233-reschart.pdf You can print it right from the site or down­loaded it.  Once down­loaded you can print the test chart in the best qual­ity your printer will allow you to print.   This is what you will need to run this test: your cam­era and lens; a sturdy tri­pod; a remote cable release; a board to mount the test chart on; the test chart.

Step 1. Attach the chart on the board with tape so that the chart will not move if there is any wind.

Step 2.  Find a bright spot out­side and set the board with the chart in the sun.

Step 3.  Install your cam­era on a tripod.

Step 4.  Select the cam­era to aper­ture priority.

Step 5.  Focus your cam­era on the chart.

Test Chart Loca­tion Below

Next, we’ll start with full open.  Let’s say at f5.6 and shoot your first pic­ture.  Next we’ll shoot a photo at each f-stop, mak­ing note of each photo’s f-stop so that when you import them you will know which F-stop cor­re­sponds to each pho­to­graph.  Be sure to use your remote shut­ter release cable and don’t move the cam­era through the whole process.  Please note  that any cam­era shake or move­ment will cause an inac­cu­rate test.

After you fin­ish, take your mem­ory card and import into your favorite photo edit­ing soft­ware.  (I use Adobe Light­room 2.)  Open the pho­tos in your edi­tor and set the  mag­ni­fi­ca­tion to one to one.  Use a side by side com­pare func­tion if avail­able.  Now, care­fully inspect and com­pare each pho­to­graph to see which one is the sharpest.  Once you have deter­mined which photo is the sharpest you have found your lens F-stop sweet spot.

If you are using a zoom lens you may want to repeat these steps for sev­eral focal lengths.  Let’s say you’re using a 70 to 200 mm lens.  First use 70mm then 130mm then 200mm. This will let you find the best F-stop for the sharpest pic­ture at all F-stops.

The chart below shows the tests results I found with the lenses I have.

Con­clu­sion.

One thing that I found when per­form­ing these tests is the bet­ter the lens qual­ity the harder it is to find the exact sweet spot. These lenses gen­er­ally had between two and three F-stops with the best sharp­ness. With some less expen­sive lens I found it easy to find a sin­gle F-stop sweet spot. But it is pos­si­ble with higher end con­sumer lenses with ED glass (extra low dis­tor­tion glass) you can get very sharp images.

Now you know what your lens sweet spot is.  Even if you have a less expen­sive lens, by using this knowl­edge, you will be able to get very sharp pho­tographs with most lenses.  But, we do live in the real world.  Some­times, because of low light con­di­tions, or the need to adjust the depth of field, we may have to adjust our F-stop to our needs.  So, if the sit­u­a­tion is right to use the sweet spot of your lens,  you will find you will get the sharpest pic­tures pos­si­ble with your lens.

The Tele­con­verter

I was not happy with the test results on the Nikon TC-20E II 2X Tele­con­verter.   I have read other reviews of the Nikon brand Tele­con­verter that come to same con­clu­sion. They also revealed that the Nikon TC-17E II 1.7x and Nikon TC-14E II 1.4x both had supe­rior per­for­mance over the TC-20E II 2X Teleconverter.

If you are in the mar­ket for a new lens or cam­era, buy the best lens you can afford.  In my opin­ion, the lens is more impor­tant than the cam­era.  Con­sider this the lens has a life cycle of about 10 or more years and because the cam­era tech­nol­ogy changes so fast, the camera’s life cycle is only 2 to 5 years.

So do your home­work before you buy any cam­era, lens or teleconverter.

Please share your ques­tions or com­ments below.

Happy sharp shooting.

Doug Nie­der­miller



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Lens Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO

Lens aper­ture, shut­ter speed and ISO are the three pri­mary adjust­ments avail­able to achieve a prop­erly exposed pho­to­graph. These set­tings can also affect the image qual­ity and artis­tic effects of your photography.

Lens Aper­ture

The aper­ture is the size of the open­ing in the cam­era lens at the moment a photo is taken.  Aper­ture is mea­sured in frac­tions, so the larger the num­ber, the smaller the aper­ture open­ing.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture are the two pri­mary con­trols for lim­it­ing the amount of light that hits the cam­era sen­sor.  Aper­ture also con­trols the depth of field.  A small aper­ture will pro­duce a pho­to­graph with almost all objects in focus.  A large aper­ture will pro­duce a pho­to­graph with a small amount  of the objects in focus.  This will give you con­trol over what you want in focus. That is why I pri­mar­ily use the aper­ture pri­or­ity cam­era set­ting in my photography.

Typ­i­cal aper­tures include:   f1   f1.4    f2     f2.8     f4     f5.6    f8     f11     f16     f22     f23 f45

Cam­era Shut­ter Speed

Shut­ter speed is the amount of time the shut­ter remains open when a photo is taken.  Shut­ter speed and aper­ture together deter­mine just how much light hits the film or cam­era sen­sor.  The shut­ter speed is also a frac­tion, just like the aper­ture.  A shut­ter speed of 500 is actu­ally 1/500, or “one five hun­dredth of a sec­ond. To hand hold a cam­era, the rule of thumb is a 50mm lens can be hand-held at 1/60 of a sec­ond.  A 200mm lens at 1/200 of a sec­ond and so on.  To achieve this you can adjust the aper­tures or the ISO settings.

Typ­i­cal shut­ter speeds:  30s    20s    10s   4s   2s   1s   1/2s    1/4s     1/8s   1/15s    1/30s   1/60s   1/125s     1/250s     1/500s    1/1000s    1/2000s    1/4000s

Cam­era Sen­sor ISO

The sen­si­tiv­ity of film or cam­era sen­sor is mea­sured by ISO, and the larger the num­ber, the more sen­si­tive the cam­era sen­sor.  ISO 100 needs a lot of light, like out­doors on a sunny day.  ISO 1600 doesn’t need much light.  How­ever, higher ISO means more grain in the film and more noise in dig­i­tal.  Dig­i­tal images bor­row the ISO scale to mea­sure the sen­si­tiv­ity of film.  Just like the grain that’s added to film at higher ISO set­tings, more “noise” is added to dig­i­tal images at higher ISO.  In gen­eral, as ISO goes up, qual­ity goes down.  Some of the new mid to high-end D-SLR have improved the noise lev­els at the higher ISO set­tings up to ISO 1600.  Some of the new cam­eras have ISO set­tings between 100 and 102400.

Typ­i­cal ISO set­tings:   50   100   200 400   800   1600   and high ISO 3200 6400

Con­clu­sion

My basic cam­era set­tings I use related to this arti­cle  are: ISO 100 for best image qual­ity  and set cam­era to aper­ture pri­or­ity.  Also, use a tri­pod when ever pos­si­ble.  All three set­tings work in con­cert and affect proper expo­sure.  All have their advan­tages an dis­ad­van­tages, so exper­i­ment with all of  these set­tings and you will become a bet­ter photographer.

Ref­er­ence

Hear is a nice Expo­sure Chart

 

Doug Nie­der­miller Photography

 

 


Adobe Lightroom 2

 

 

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